Forget Google reviews, how about these for truly great Edinburgh pubs
As JD Wetherspoon's Standing Order is surprisingly named the best bar in Britain, we go in search of some of the city’s truly great bars
Edinburgh’s hospitality is front and centre once again. Following the announcement of two new Michelin stars awarded to city restaurants, the Capital’s official designation as the Good Food Guide’s “most exciting food destination” comes the, erm, dare we say, rather more surprising designation of one Edinburgh pub as Britain’s best loved bar.
You’ve probably seen at least one of the stories about the Wetherspoon branch being the county’s most popular by virtue of achieving the highest number of excellent reviews on Google. It also sells £1.99 pints. Now there’s nothing we’d fault in a well-priced pint, but you’d be hard pushed to argue the Standing Order is even the best Wetherspoon in Edinburgh, compared to much-admired venues like the converted HMV Picturehouse.
Always keen to display the great things happening in Scotland’s capital, the whole episode prompted us at The Inquirer to head off in search of the truly excellent pubs in Edinburgh.
It’s a tough gig for journalists, you’ll understand, our profession being characterised by sobriety and early nights… But with extensive (and delicious) research, and a little advice from the experts, we’ve collected some of the real treasures of Edinburgh’s pub scene.
Best pubs for beer:
Scotland’s first lager was brewed in Edinburgh - and the city has been home to giants of the beer industry over the centuries. While that familiar malty aroma is rarely in the air these days, Edinburgh pubs still live up to our beer heritage.
Last month, the Campaign for Real Ales (a nationwide movement for “real ale, community pubs and consumer rights” with 200 branches of very enthusiastic beer tasters) dubbed the Stockbridge Tap its favourite Edinburgh Pub. Ever thought that cask ale is just warm flat beer? That’s because you’ve not tasted it from the Tap. Not only does the Stockbridge Tap have an excellently curated selection of craft beers from independent breweries; it has staff who know how to look after a beer so that every pint is as crisp and refreshing as it should be.
Sonja Mitchell, brewer and founder of Jumpship Brewery, told us her favourite Edinburgh pubs, too. “Tucked away in the Old Town, Salt Horse in Blackfriars Street offers an excellent selection of craft beer - a great place to try a few different styles and a tasty burger. Their bar staff are really knowledgeable and will happily recommend a beer if you're looking to try something new. The burgers are tasty too,” she says.
Staying in the Old Town, Mitchell loves the Jolly Judge. “A hidden gem, this is a cosy pub when it's raining and their outside courtyard is a real gem in warmer weather. Just 20m away from the tourist bustle of the Royal Mile, it's a little sanctuary.” And finally the Portobello Tap: “A great place to stop off for a pint after a dog walk on Portobello Beach, it's kid friendly during the day too.”
Best pubs for entertainment:
Edinburgh Inquirer’s regular festival and arts guru, Will Quinn, picked out some of the most fun pubs in town. “The Barony Bar on Broughton Street hosts what may be the greatest pub quiz in the city every Monday night. Ross the Quizmaster is a superb, cheeky chap, and the bar has some great stuff on tap, and in the kitchen if you're hungry. The Monkey Barrel Comedy Club Cafe Bar (or however it labels itself) is a lovely, and surprisingly large bar for a comedy club. The bar is well stocked, and the vibe is super chilled - it's got a cosy oasis vibe most of the time, and whether you're going into a show or not, it's a great place to get away from the bustle of the mile.”
If you’re looking for less interactive evening entertainment, another of our writers Cat Thomson recommends Leith Depot. “Leith Depot is an Independent Bar, Restaurant and Grass Roots Music Venue, established in 2015. They pride themselves on being part of the local community, the community rallied when they had their livelihood threatened by a property giant who planned to demolish their pub. They also provide great hospitality, with seasonal food and a wide selection of bottled craft beers, wines and numerous draught beers.”
Best pubs for queer community:
Edinburgh has its handful of gay bars; CC Blooms is famous for a good dance. But if it’s a relaxed pint you’re after, Edinburgh Pride organiser Jamie Love recommends The Regent at Abbeyhill. A little further out of town, The Dreadnought in Newhaven offers a wonderful combination of old-fashioned beer, and progressive politics. Situated right next to the iconic Pride Bridge, the bar hosts a yearly Pride month fundraiser, named “Gayz Onley” after homophobic graffiti sprayed onto the pub's exterior. It’s also a frequent Campaign for Real Ales award-winner for cider and beer.
Best historic pubs:
Edinburgh is steeped in history, and our pubs are no different. Here are Cat Thomson’s best pubs with an interesting past:
“Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston is a historic pub; there has been an inn on this site since 1360, although the current building dates from the 18th century. Inside, you will find an old-fashioned skittle alley where you can drink and bowl. The most notable visitor was the late Queen who popped in for lunch in 2016, Holyrood Palace is nearby.
The Cafe Royal, with a pub interior of outstanding national historic importance and Scotland's oldest Oyster Bar. It opened on the 8th of July 1863. The main space has tiled paintings made by Doulton, they show six famous inventors; Benjamin Franklin, Michael Faraday, Robert Peel, William Caxton, George Stephenson and James Watt.
The Bridge Inn, Ratho is situated next to the Union Canal, and was originally a farm building before being used by the navvies who built the canal in 1818. In 1864, George Bryce, the son of the landlord, murdered a nursery maid at the Bridge Inn. He was hanged on the Royal Mile, one of the last public executions in Scotland. Today it serves great local food as well as local drinks.”
If you’ve made it to this point without rummaging in the fridge for a tinnie, well done. Believe it or not that is the short list. Edinburgh is packed full of more pubs with fascinating history, fabulous beer and fun-filled events programmes. The weekend is young, the sun’s out, there’s no rugby on - what better to do than grab a cheeky pint?
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